Another sensational wine is the 1989 Cote Rotie la Landonne. Served right next to the '99 and just as deep ruby in color, it offered a classic array of truffle, underbrush, licorice, smoked meats, black olive and sweet dark fruits. Deep, concentrated, ultra-pure and with building tannin, it's a killer, fully mature Cote Rotie that will continue to knock your socks off over the coming decade or more.

Rich and aromatic. The ripe plum, chocolate, toast and spice flavors are concentrated and harmonious; the firm tannins promise long life. Hard now, it should begin to open in 1999.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. 700 cases made. -TM