The 2005 Pinot Noir “Dussin Vineyard” spent 10 months in 30% new French oak. Medium ruby–colored, it offers a lovely perfume of smoke, leather, red cherry, and cassis. This leads to a medium-bodied, lush wine with sweet, spicy fruit, uplifting acidity and integrated tannins. There is excellent depth length to this unusually friendly 2005. Lynn Penner-Ash had a long, successful career at Rex Hill before starting her namesake winery with her husband Ron in 1998. They are now ensconced in a new gravity-flow winery of their own design. She describes the 2005 vintage as “challenging” both because of the weather and because it was their first vintage in the new winery. Tel. (503) 554-5545; www.pennerash.com. Also tasted: 2006 Viognier (90), 2006 Riesling (90), 2005 Syrah (90)