The Hirtzberger 2007 Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen – picked through the month of October – smells of lime zest, marjoram, and gun flint. Bright, brisk, almost a bit brusque, it reveals the combination palpable extract with refreshment, but also the tendency toward a decidedly green cast that are traits of so many wines in this vintage. A waxy texture helps to ameliorate the tartness here, and saline, crushed stone notes add interest to the finish. Pair this with care over the next 2-3 years. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700