The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) has turned out brilliantly in bottle, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild plums, woodsmoke and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, perfumed and charming, with a fleshy core of fruit, velvety tannins and lively acids, it's deep and concentrated. Lamy may be better-known for his whites, but anyone who tastes this Santenay will understand that his talents are far from being confined to Chardonnay.