Easily offering the best bang for the buck of this trio is the 2001 Reserva from a great Rioja vintage. The wine is 100% Tempranillo and was aged in American oak for 14 months. It is dark ruby-colored with a fragrant nose of spice, cedar, red currants, and cherry that jumps from the glass. In the mouth the wine is intensely flavored with a stylish grace and elegance that reflects traditional winemaking in a fine year. The wine has enough structure and balance to drink well for another 8-10 years. This is a great value in Rioja. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Stewed fruit aromas with some baked beans on the side just isn’t alluring, and the lean, raw, acidic palate that some might describe as traditional isn’t clicking in my book. Saving graces include milk chocolate on the finish.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 82