Caymus has been around for so long there is a tendency to under-estimate their wines. However, they have a brilliant track record as evidenced by the decade old 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Vintage Selection. Abundant chocolaty, black currant, licorice and coffee aromas soar from the glass of this perfumed wine. It exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color, wonderful opulence, a deep, full-bodied mouthfeel, fabulous depth and not a hard edge to be found. While seemingly fully mature, the supple tannins, expansive fruit and glycerin, depth and overall balance suggest it will keep for another 15+ years. Tel. (707) 963-5958

93 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2001 $136. A lush textured wine that shows gobs of blackberry, cherry, plum, coffee, spice, herb and anise flavors, all framed in firm, ripe tannins. The finish is long, with a spicy edge. Quite intense and full-on.——J.M.(12/31/2004)—— 93