The flamboyant, fragrant 2004 Zinfandel Grandmere (2,000 cases produced) boasts plenty of berry fruit, pepper, spice, and earth as well as loads of glycerin, a voluptuous texture, and a heady, pure, rich finish. It will drink well for 3-4 years. Tel. (800) 348-8466

If this wine had greater acidity for crispness, it would be near perfect, but as it stands, it’s too soft. Too bad, because the flavors, of blackberries, cassis, chocolate, anise, mint and smoky vanilla, are totally delicious. The flabbiness is cause for concern.——S.H.(4/1/2008)—— 85