Although Kistler's 1991 Chardonnays are not as opulent, explosively rich, and authoritative as their 1990s, they are among the greatest of the vintage. The 1991 Kistler Estate Chardonnay has just been released. It exhibits the same smoky, buttery, hazelnut-scented nose as a great Chassagne-Montrachet or Meursault. Magnificently rich and unctuous, with full body and layers of fruit, this spectacular Chardonnay offers celestial pleasure. It should drink well for at least 4-5 years. The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well.