The 2007 Chardonnay Hawk Hill Vineyard displays copious amounts of white corn, honeyed pear, and tropical fruit characteristics in a full-bodied style with zesty acidity, admirable focus, and a medium to full-bodied, rich finish. Although it is my least favorite of these four Chardonnays, it is still an outstanding effort. It is just overwhelmed by the competition. Tired of drinking one oxidized white Burgundy after another? If so, check out wines such as this.The single vineyard Pinot Noirs are made from a wide range of California vineyards, primarily in the north, with Russian River and Sonoma Coast dominating, but there is also an Anderson Valley site (Ferrington), San Benito site (Vista Verde), and Yorkville Highlands (Weir). The Chardonnays are nearly as powerful as the Zinfandels in terms of alcohol strength, ranging from 14.5% to 14.8%.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Very powerful, very strong, almost overwhelming in the sheer wealth of fruit and oak, but balanced with acidity. Winemaker Bob Cabral himself calls it “concentrated.” It detonates on the palate with an almost dessert wine quality of lemons, pineapples, honey, vanilla and minerals, but it’s totally dry. Will hold for perhaps six years.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 95