One of the truly fun characters of Piedmont has once again turned in this superlative performance. Readers may remember my laudatory praise for the debut vintage of Clerico's Barolo Pajana in 1990. As I was dictating my tasting notes for the 1993, my first two words were "kick ass." I realize that doesn't say everything readers want or need to know about a wine, so consider the following description. It is an opaque dark color, with a chocolate, black-raspberry, cherry, and truffle-scented nose, sweet, rich, concentrated fruit flavors, an expansive mid-palate, and impressive opulence and richness in the nicely textured, long finish. Although unevolved, the wine is accessible. It should drink well for 10-15 years.