Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. The Chablis Vaillons is an outstanding wine at an affordable price. Revealing liquid stones, smoke and traces of oak on the nose, this is an expressive, rich, broad, bright, concentrated, and extremely ripe wine packed with flint, flowers, dried herbs, and spicy oak. Its impressively long and pure finish is nuanced by metallic lemon flavors. It should be at its best between 2002 and 2008. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

A God-like wine that might bring tears to the eyes of some Chardonnay aficionados. One of the most impressive white Burgundies of the '96 vintage. Balanced, full in body, supple in texture yet very intense, it builds its foundation with layer upon layer of fruit, spice, mineral, earth, butter and citrus notes. Stays in suspended animation in the midpalate for what seems like a good 60 seconds, almost vibrating with nervous agitation. Long and succulent finish. Decant if drinking now or cellar until 2005 for more mature complexity. 715 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Burgundy / Chablis Select to Add