I expected the 1990 and 1991 Cabernets from Diamond Creek to perform better. While they are certainly good, they are much lighter than what one has come to expect from this winery. On several occasions recently I have had the 1978s from Diamond Creek, which are among the greatest Cabernet-based wines I have tasted from anywhere in the world. It is hard to believe these current offerings will ever approach the richness and intensity that this estate's wines exhibited from the seventies to the mid-eighties. Could the wines be going through a temporarily awkward stage, or are they being made in a lighter, more easily accessible style?The 1991 Volcanic Hill exhibits a stewed, leathery, spicy, herbaceous-scented nose, and elegant, medium-bodied, moderately concentrated flavors, but, again, some annoying off smells are present; I suspect they will dissipate with racking. Given the relatively poor performance of these six wines, and my previous admiration for Diamond Creek Cabernets, I am as mystified as anyone as to what direction this property is headed.

This is a deceptively rich and detailed wine. Though it lacks overt ripe fruitiness, it adequately compensates with a mix of rich, earthy currant, hints of cherry and berry and traces of cedar, anise and tobacco. Firm tannins indicate a long life ahead.--'81/'91 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2012. -JL