The 2009 Meursault Perrieres (from the lower part of the vineyard) is wonderfully perfumed, subtle and elegant. It caresses the palate with layers of finely sculpted fruit, showing notable detail and crystalline purity. There is an element of delicacy here that is quite appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Pierre-Yves Colin's 2009 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is aging very gracefully indeed, wafting from the glass with notes of lemon oil, crisp yellow apple, pastry cream and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, textural and multidimensional, it's deep and complete, with lively acids and chalky structuring dry extract, concluding with a long and beautifully defined finish. How gratifying it is to see that some white Burgundies still have the potential to follow a classical evolutionary trajectory in the cellar.