The belle of the ball, the 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Mazzano is a breathtaking effort that is drinking beautifully right now. The wine is richly textured and intricate with tightly embroidered notes of dried cherry, barbecue sauce, cured meat, juniper berry, plum cake, leather and grilled herb. It shows the power of Amarone with the elegance of a wine made from fresh berries (not air-dried fruit). But make no mistake, that extra appassimento intensity and texture is on full display. Drink 2015-2030. Winemaking excellence should be consistent, but it must never be static. This is a lesson I learned at a recent tasting spanning five decades of Masi’s wines including the 1967, 1973, 1979, 1983, 1988, 1990, 1995, 1997, 2003 and 2007 Amarones Classico, Riserva, Vaio, Campolongo and Mazzano. Sandro Boscaini and his team of technicians have been tinkering with their signature style for many decades. Like a New York cab swerving between traffic lanes, they’ve veered into more oak, less oak, more extraction and less extraction. Despite the manic maneuvering, they never venture far from the centerline. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, www.kobrandwineandspirits.com

A silky texture sheathes the subtly muscled frame in this well-dressed red, which shows integrated tannins and flavors of dried cherry, currant and grilled nut, with a full range of ground spices—clove, cumin, white pepper, anise and others. Very stylish, with a long, juicy finish. Drink now through 2029. 150 cases imported.??–AN??Region: Italy / Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Select to Add

9 Wow, what a wine! Masi’s Mazzano takes the best of Valpolicella and magnifies it by one thousand percent. There’s dense richness and softness here followed by savory notes of spice, cured meat, leather, barbecue sauce, dried ginger and plum cake. The tannins are extra polished and fine. ——M.L.(12/1/2011)—— 95