The 2004 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Grosses Gewachs is expansive and generous on the palate when compared with the relative severity of the Pittermannchen. Scents of almond, white peach and peach kernel set the theme for what follows. Fruit pit and citrus rind notes accent but don’t render bitter a juicy, citric, bright, yet at the same time, creamy-textured palate impact. White peach, nut oil, subtle smokiness and diverse mineral notes combine for a discrete yet ravishingly layered and long finish. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300