The 2005 Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio emerges from the glass with dark cherries, tobacco, spices and herbs, all of which are supported by fine tannins. A streak of minerality frames the finish beautifully. This mid-weight, elegant red is one of the finest wines I have tasted from Lungarotti in some time. Today the fruit is quite fresh and vibrant. Readers who enjoy more tertiary complexity will want to cellar this for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2023. This year I tasted the entire range from Lungarotti. The estate continues to excel with the wines that built the estate’s name. The rationale for producing Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay in Umbria escapes me, while the wines from Montefalco remain works in progress. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

Chiara Lungarotti says that this vintage of her vineyard-designate Riserva represents a milestone for her family run estate. Indeed, this is a rich and elegant red wine that shows signature notes of wild berry and spice that reflect her beloved territory: Umbria.——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 92