The 2006 Harlequin is one of the most exciting, viscerally thrilling wines I have tasted in a while. Sweet aromas of roasted espresso beans lead to wild cherries, mint, licorice, blackberry jam and star anise as this opulent, full-throttle wine shows off its inimitable class and pedigree. Today the oak remains a touch intrusive, particularly in the tannins, but there appears to be more than enough density in the fruit to provide balance. The finish is eternal. This is a profound effort from Celestino Gaspari and his team. Harlequin is made from as many as fifteen different varieties. The grapes go through a brief drying process prior to being vinified. The wine is then racked into French oak, where it spends two full years with no subsequent rackings. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Proprietor Celestino Gaspari was once the heir apparent at Quintarelli. He has since struck out on his own at Zyme, where he spares no expense in his quest to make rich, textured wines. With this set of new releases it appears Gaspari has begun to achieve some of his lofty goals. These are simply fabulous wines. It will be interesting to see where the estate goes from here, but the direction seems pretty clear. Importer: Riviera Imports, Long Island City, NY; tel. (917) 328-8830