A chalky component to the tannins is somewhat troubling, but otherwise, the 2004 Bellevue possesses impressive credentials. Its dense ruby/purple-hued color is followed by aromas of crushed rocks, sweet cherry and currant fruit, and background new oak. Medium to full-bodied with moderately sharp tannin, but terrific fruit purity, texture, and a real sense of its place of origin, this structured wine is meant for serious connoisseurs. It will need 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last for 15-20.

Aromas of blackberry, Christmas pudding and light vanilla. Medium- to full-bodied, with fresh tannins and a medium finish. Slightly hollow midpalate. Best after 2009. 1,915 cases made. -JS