Entirely from the 80-year-old plot, the 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett offers a clear, intense and smoky bouquet of ripe apricots, toasted paprika and stone-fruit skins. Round and lush on the palate, this is a very delicate and unapologetically delicious Kabinett with a long, lush, salty-piquant and beautifully astringent finish. It's still reductive and racy but already very, very sexy. Tasted in March 2019.