To me, Knoll’s wines are always among the lightest-bodied of the major Wachau producers, but they are exquisitely detailed, presenting their scents and flavors in a fine filigree. This one offers hints of celery and lettuce greens, melon and white pepper edged with traces of honeyed richness. Imported by Vin Divino. ——J.C.(3/1/2006)—— 89