I was blown away by the 2002 Chardonnay Unfiltered, one of California’s finest Chardonnays made from a 30-year-old vineyard planted with old Wente clones. This cuvee ages well, as a gorgeous bottle of 1992 tasted recently demonstrated. Nevertheless, I prefer drinking them within their first 6-7 years. A huge, floral and white peach nose with some oily citrus and tropical fruit (primarily pineapple) jumps from the glass of this powerful, broad, but beautifully layered wine that is harmonious and pure. As the wine sits in the glass, some of that famous gout de petrole emerges, which is a characteristic I often find in Montrachets and Meursault-Perrieres. The wine has good acidity and should prove to be one of the top Chardonnays of the vintage. Tel. (707) 963-9000; Fax (707) 963-5408

Impressive, delicious, a tremendous wine in every respect. It’s powerfully smoky, with spiced oak everywhere, rich in buttered toast and vanilla, but such pretty fruit underneath, it’s easily able to support it. Mangoes, pineapples, peaches, ripe Bosc pears, loads of dusty spices and a rich, full creamy texture. ——S.H.(8/1/2005)—— 94