The 2003 Duas Quintas Reserva is in a great place today. I'm always shocked at how well great vintages age. I haven't seen this in nearly 15 years, but it has gotten better and answered any doubts that I had about it. I'm always conservative with drinking windows, but this clearly has busted through even my secret hopes. It's deep, mouth coating and fairly powerful, in a refined way, as it sits in the glass. The big fruit is delicious, too, without being obvious. With its intensity and relative youth, it plainly has lots of time left. For all of that, it also drinks well today. This is beautiful now. I would have to admit that it is not done evolving, and it may yet be at peak. Let's take the future drinking window in stages and see where it goes. It seems poised to be a 30-year wine or more, but I do like to be careful, given different tastes and storage conditions. The price of this library wine merely references the cost of current releases.

The two Ramos-Pinto quintas of Ervamoira and Bons Ares provide contrasting fruit—the hot, dry conditions of Ervamoira and the more temperate climate of Bons Ares. Together, with this coffee and oak flavored wine, built upon ripe fruits, they make an impressive combination of dark, spicy flavors.——R.V.(9/1/2007)—— 89