The 1999 Hermitage has shut down since bottling, but it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as a big, masculine, virile nose of roasted meats, pepper, earth, minerals, and black fruits. Currently closed and impenetrable, it should open with another 4-5 years of cellaring, and age for 15-18 years. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

A gentle giant of a wine. Subtle and elegant Hermitage, layered with seductive aromas and flavors, from tobacco to green olive, roasted game, mineral and blackberries. Silky mouthfeel, this medium-bodied red is smooth, yet also fresh on the long finish. Will age for years. Drink now through 2015. 7,330 cases made. -PM

A massive wine, with its opaque, dense purple color, its huge tannins and its tight, powerful structure. When it develops—maybe in 10 or 15 years’ time—the perfumed, juicy Syrah fruits that are just suggested for the moment are going to be as dominant as the tannins are now. What a wine it will be then. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 95