The 2005 Etna Rosso is 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio that was aged in French oak barrels. Sweet candied cherries, flowers and spices flow effortlessly from this mid-weight, ethereal wine. The Etna Rosso offers superb balance in an understated and totally compelling style. Sweet notes of mint and herbs reappear on the finish, adding a further layer of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Cottanera, owned by the Cambria family, is another of the emerging young estates on the Etna. Consulting oenologist Lorenzo Landi oversees winemaking. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

Here’s a modern, yet softly delicate wine from Mount Etna (made from Nerello Mascalese with a small percentage of Nerello Cappuccio) that offers tight berry nuances framed by generous tones of almond, cola and licorice. The wine tastes sophisticated and elegant thanks to its polished tannins and lingering mineral flavors. ——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 92