A powerful, old style Barolo, Carretta's 1998 Vigneta Cannubi offers up scents of new saddle leather, underbrush, earth, truffles, vitamins, black cherry fruit, rose petals, and tar. Abundant tannin, serious concentration, high extract, and a structured, formidable personality suggest an atypical style in 1998, but one that will repay cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.

Tenuta Carretta, under the ownership of the Miroglio family, has a small portion of the Cannubi vineyard. The 1998 is elegant and well balanced. There are aromas of vanilla with some soft, ripe fruit. The palate is dry, especially on the finish, but the fruit underneath is soft and sweet. ——R.V.(11/15/2002)—— 89