The maiden 2013 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, of which there is just one barrel, comes from purchased must. It has a clean and precise bouquet, taciturn at first but opening with time in the glass. The palate is fresh on the entry with good depth and concentration, slightly viscous with a powerful, spicy finish that lingers nicely. This marks a confident debut and they’ll be twice as much to go round next year.