The current release, the 2007 Relentless, exhibits a dense purple color as well as notes of grilled herbs, tar, blackberries, cassis, pepper and jus de viande. This full-bodied powerhouse should last at least 15-20 years. While still renowned for their portfolio of classic world-class reds, Shafer also turns out a terrific non-malolactic Chardonnay from the Red Shoulder Ranch. The only dramatic change made over recent years is that instead of 100% being barrel-fermented and oak-aged, 25% is now aged in stainless steel which has added freshness and possibly longevity. Introduced several years ago, the Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five cuvee is aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. It is meant to be a reference point Cabernet from Stags Leap priced lower than Shafer’s limited production, usually monumental Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon. Shafer’s flagship offering is their monumental Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select (about 2,000 cases produced). Always 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for at least 30 months in oak, this is one of Napa’s most profound wines. Since 1999, Shafer has made a Syrah/Petite Sirah blend (usually 80% of the former and 20% of the latter) aged 32 months in 100% new French oak. The first vintage, the 1999 Relentless, which they opened at the winery to show how well it is aging, is still a baby at age 11. I rated it 96 points, which is higher than the 93 points I gave it in 2002. So much for California Syrah not aging well! The 1999 is still intense with a plum color and lots of grilled meat, herb, licorice and spice characteristics.Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

A gorgeous wine, ripe and juicy, with black cherry, plum and currant flavors joined by spicy cedar, graphite, tobacco and dried sage. Full-bodied and powerful, yet restrained and ageworthy. Syrah and Petite Sirah. Best from 2012 through 2022. 3,800 cases made. -JL

Relentless, a blend this year of mainly Syrah and Petite Sirah, is always a very good wine. The ’07 strikes one as, above all, tannic and dry. Then the blackberry, black cherry, dark baker’s chocolate, herb tea and smoked meat flavors kick in, impressing with their complexity. It’s a distinctive wine, quite unlike anything else in California. Despite the hard tannins it’s drinkable now, and will challenge chefs and sommeliers to figure out what to serve it with. The winemaker suggests braised short ribs, smoked lamb, roast duck and Cheddar cheese.——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 93