From young, clonally-diverse vines in la Bouchere – a very chalky, rocky site high above the village – Rossignol’s 2005 Volnay is loaded with deep, dark black cherry fruit, cherry pits, salty, chalky, iodine- and iron-like minerality. Incipiently velvety in the mouth, it promises to blossom with 3-5 years in the bottle, which it seems not at all disturbed by having just been put into. Here is the spirit of Volnay in a great vintage at a modest price: run, don’t walk! Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

A dark, polished style, whose supple texture keeps the fine-grained tannins at bay while the bright blackberry and violet notes shine. There's harmony to this, with a nice lacy feel. Best from 2010 through 2020. 290 cases made. -BS