There are 10,000 bottles of the luxury cuvee, the 2001 Condrieu La Doriane. One of the appellation’s most distinctive and complex offerings, it offers up a fragrant perfume of incense, smoke, honeysuckle, and jammy white fruits. Unctuously-textured and full-bodied, with tremendous intensity, it should be drunk over the next 1-2 years, although past vintages have held up better in bottle than I predicted. Nevertheless, I prefer these whites in their youth. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Supple white in a buttery style, with grilled pineapple and toasted oak flavors. Well-made, full-bodied and spicy, a food wine as well as an aperitif wine. Fresh finish, with good acidity. Drink now through 2007. 830 cases made. -PM