This is just this side of unctuous, a decadently ripe and rich late harvest Riesling. The residual sugar is at 23%, the alcohol a moderate 8%, and the balance impeccable, with a buoyant underpinning to the intense sweetness. It avoids sugary granularity as well, offering seamless, concentrated fruit that piles on flavors of peach, apricot, banana, mango, papaya and melon in wild profusion, trailing into sweet tea and honey. Apart from the winery’s Single Berry Select Trockenbeerenauslese project with Ernie Loosen, this is the best dessert wine made in Washington.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 96