Hirtzberger has long ago revealed himself as a master when it comes to Pinot Blanc, and his 2005 Weissburgunder Smaragd Steinporz simply drives home that point. Harvested October 25, this offers exceptional clarity and brightness of fruit – apple, lemon, hazelnut, almond – along with positively shimmering mineral notes. A deep, marrowy, rich, billowing finish delivers flavors of plum, apple, toasted nuts, and ineffable essences that can only be classified as “mineral” and “animal.” Anyone who thinks Pinot Blanc incapable of the profundity of a great Burgundy – red or white – has not yet tasted this! Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700