High-toned lemon oil, wood smoke, and distilled pit fruit esters emanate from the glass of Prager 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg. This penetrates like a flying arrow, sleek and polished in texture but rather spare on the mid-palate, then leaving behind bright lime, mirabelle, blueberry, smoke, and wet stone. I cannot recall another Riesling Smaragd here this extreme, and wonder whether it will fill out with time, and how much time one might give it. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Pale green-yellow. Apricot, mint, ripe yellow apple and a touch of blossom honey comprise a very inviting bouquet. Elegant and nicely balanced, although still somewhat closed in the mouth. This rather full-bodied riesling possesses a racy acid structure but its flavors are currently suppressed and will benefit from further bottle maturation. Finishes with discreet grapefruit and vegetal components. Drink 2010 to 2017.