The 2006 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos de Monsieur Noly Reserve Vieilles Vignes spent fully twelve years in barrel, so I think it's safe to say that there's nothing remotely comparable being produced in Burgundy today. Wafting from the glass with complex aromas of rich dried fruit, golden apples, fresh mushroom, honeycomb, orange rind, marzipan and vanilla pod—complemented by a delicately oxidative top note of Oloroso sherry—the wine is full-bodied, rich and layered, with an ample and multidimensional core and plenty of lively energy despite its long élevage, concluding with a lingering and intensely saline finish. This saw longer in barrel and hails from a riper vintage than the 2004 Clos de Monsieur Noly, making for an even more singular style. Like all of Valette's wines, it responds very well to an hour or two in a decanter.