A big, ripe, slightly alcoholic wine, this is meant to make a statement. The color is coppery, suggesting some skin contact and there are even some red fruit flavors mixed in with the layers of peaches and honey. Slightly off-dry and low in acidity, this rich Pinot Gris would be lovely by itself on a lazy, late-summer day.——J.C.(8/1/2004)—— 87