The 1998 Franciacorta Saten used to be called Cremant in the zone until the French, reasonably enough, objected. This is a sparkling wine with less fizz, three atmospheres of pressure in the bottle rather than the usual five, and this is an impeccable example of the type in its presentation of buttery peach and lemon fruit and freshly baked bread, creamy texture, and overall stylishness and poise. Maurizio Zanella, the founder of Ca’ de Bosco, has won a large group of admirers for what he has accomplished over the past quarter of a century, but has also attracted a certain number of detractors who object to what they consider his excessive flamboyance and vaulting ambition. I am an unambiguous member of the first party, and consider his sparkling wines the finest expression of what Italy can do in this field, worthy competitors to fine French Champagne.