The outstanding 2009 Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde possesses copious notes of sweet black olives, black cherries, new saddle leather, herbs and spice box in its evolved, sexy, medium to full-bodied, lush personality. Loaded with fruit, depth and purity, it should drink well for 10-15 years. Director Guy Sarton de Joncquey continues to upgrade virtually every wine being produced at Vidal Fleury. Working from a sparkling new facility, this property is moving toward earlier bottling to preserve the wines’ freshness and fruit, and quality is clearly on the upswing, as evidenced by issue #197’s report on their extensive negociant business in the southern Rhone. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE