Bernard Mollard's 1997 Batard-Montrachet exhibits aromas of sweet pears, talcum powder, spices, creamed hazelnuts, and buttered toast. This is a full-bodied wine of considerable richness, ripeness, and depth. It coats the taster's mouth with oily layers of earth, minerals, vanilla beans, and creme brulee that linger throughout its impressively persistent and pure finish. It is already fabulous to drink yet at a tasting, it sat in my glass for an hour with no evidence of oxidation. Projected maturity: now-2008. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.