The 2007 Traminer Smaragd – as always at Knoll, rare Yellow Traminer – smells of bacon, citrus oil, celery seed, and rose petal. A (for this variety) surprising amalgam of lime and orange zest bitterness on an oily-rich palate leads to a bitter-sweet, alkaline finish, which however lacks the refinement, finesse, or focus of which Gelber Traminer is memorably capable, perhaps on account of its having been the earliest-harvested (early October) of this year’s Knoll Smaragd wines. Nobody ever said grapes in this family were reliable, and anyone given the opportunity to experience bottles of the amazing 2006 (reviewed in issue 177) should jump on it. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700