The distinctive 2003 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Valreas was, to Alain Corcia’s credit, produced with no sulphur dioxide from a bio-dynamically farmed vineyard. It must be shipped and stored in refrigerated containers (virtually an impossibility in the United States) to keep it from going bad. It offers pretty, complex red and black fruit characteristics intermixed with notions of beef blood, earth, pepper, and herbes de Provence. A hint of mint develops as the wine sits in the glass. Corcia’s intentions are to be applauded, but until fine wine receives the same state-of-the-art shipping, transportation, and storage conditions (the same as Coors light beer), wines such as this will be a hard sell because of their instability. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500, Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, a Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284,nd Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400