The 2006 Negroamaro Maru isn’t quite as generous as the Piluna but it does reveal an exotic expression of dried figs, plums, cherries, spices, herbs and tobacco. It is an absolutely delicious wine to drink now and over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Castello Monaci makes a range of beautiful wines that highlight the unique qualities of Apulia’s indigenous varieties.Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This is a well-crafted, elegant wine with pretty mineral tones that frame a core of black cherry and spice. The wine offers the precise qualities—structure, good freshness and clean fruit aromas—that promise a successful pairing with most Mediterranean foods.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 87