The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Referts has a really quite superb bouquet: vibrant and well defined, the 25% (or thereabouts) new oak neatly subsumed and with hints of grilled walnut and smoke coming through with time. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity and moderate weight in the mouth, perhaps not quite as detailed as the aromatics imply, but not far off. It retains admirable vigor from the start to its saline, marine-tinged finish, and it should drink well for a decade, possibly more.