Offering up rich, smoky aromas of dark, plummy fruit and forest floor, the 1997 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos de Champs Martin Cuvée Carline is medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, with lively acids, plenty of chalky tannins and a long, spice-inflected finish. From an era when Lorenzon made much more extracted, oaky wines, this has nevertheless aged with considerable grace. Bruno observes that this was the first vintage in which he encountered sun burnt grapes in Burgundy, prompting him to let his vines' canopies grow higher.