The 2007 Reserva has an attractive, bashful bouquet that demands coaxing, with scents of singed leather and allspice. The palate is very well-balanced with crisp tannin. It is a little rustic but there is a surfeit of personality. It has lovely leafy red fruit married with white pepper and leather towards the meaty finish. Drink 2015-2030. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Black cherry mingles with light herbal and smoky flavors in this firm, fresh red, with an earthy note adding depth. The tannins are firm, the acidity fresh. Light-bodied, but has drive. Drink now through 2014. 4,000 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add