From the Yorkville Highlands, the Pinot Noir Weir Vineyard always comes across as relatively earthy and rustic, and the 2006 is a tough-textured, angular wine that takes some introspection to fully understand. There is elegance, and notes of dusty red cherries, but it is a tough customer. With over a dozen Pinot Noirs, one would think that winemaker Bob Cabral would be perennially stressed out having to deal with so many different vineyards. However, except for the blend of Russian River and Westside Road Neighbors, they are all legitimate vineyards, and I can fully comprehend why they would want to keep them separate. As I have said before, there is a clear “house” style, with wines tending to have a slightly higher acid profile, lower pHs. But there is no doubting that these are well-made wines which are, for the most part, age-worthy Pinot Noirs which, with some patience, reward cellaring. In 2006, a challenging vintage in the Russian River area (less so on the Sonoma Coast), the 2006 vintage has turned out well at Williams-Selyem. Of course, 2007 is a more fragrant, purer vintage from an integrity perspective, so those wines will be a no-brainer. I will comment on all the single vineyards, but as I write them, I must offer a word of advice: don’t dare ignore the brilliant Zinfandels and Chardonnays that Cabral turns out. They are not as renowned as the single-vineyard Pinots, but they are top-flight wines. A Pinot Noir that really depends on vintage for success is from the San Benito Valley south of San Francisco, home to the old Almaden winery.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Williams Selyem’s best Weir ever. Shows vast richness of flavor, with a flood of wild red berry currant, cherry pie, Dr. Pepper, Asian spice and smoky oak flavors, with hints of roasted meat and mocha. Yet it displays gorgeous structure. The tannins are as refined as anything in California. Great now, and should evolve for a decade in a cool cellar.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 96