The 2004 Carignan Orzada is a similar purple color. On the nose, aromas of earth, mushroom, plum and blueberry are enticing. They lead to a layered wine with savory blue and black fruits, plenty of spice and earth notes, and enough silky tannin to improve for 2-3 years. Drink this nicely balanced wine from 2010 to 2019. Odjfell produces a value-priced line called Armador but these failed to merit recommendations. However, the pricier Orzada lineup was at another level. Odfjell’s two blended wines are both outstanding.Importer: Select Fine Wines, Manhasset, NY

Getting a wine from 2004 seems behind the times, but this one shows much younger than its age. The nose deals lemon peel, shoe polish and dark berry aromas. Chewable tannins give the palate heft and depth, while the flavors are of sweet blackberry, chocolate and licorice. Turns oakier and less fruity as it opens up, indicating that it’s now or never for this Carignan. ——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 87