The Boillot 2006 Meursault Les Cras (5 barrels from ancient and decrepit vines) smells of toasted almond, grapefruit rind, bitterly pungent herbs, and peach kernel. Glossy in texture and refreshingly citric through faintly bitter, this finishes with fresh white peach and grapefruit helping to allay its strikingly austere sense of stoniness and its bitter, pointed concentration of citrus oils and fruit pits. This remarkably dynamic, palate-staining Meursault should reward 5-6 years of cellaring. Henri Boillot's ambitious and burgeoning negociant arm is made up in large part of many small bottling lots, representing remarkably many of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. -Precision and minerality- are words he offers to explain his intentions even in a vintage as ripe as 2006, and for the most part he walks the accompanying walk, with wines (largely assembled in tank) that showed more generously and expressively than did Boillot's estate wines on the same day.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724