Morgan’s been on a roll the last couple of years, now that they’ve figured out how to make this wine from fruit grown in a cool part of the Highlands. Aged in older oak barrels, the wine shows no wood at all, but has a creamy softness that modifies the crisp lemon, lime, grapefruit, pear and wildflower flavors. This is one of the best Pinot Gris in California.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 91