The 2004 Sylvaner Reserve features the nutty, smoky side of this variety, with suggestions of chalk and cherry stone in its finish. This is a little less clear and elegant than the 2005 but has a bit more stuffing and underlying mineral sense, and probably a bit more stamina. Either will make for enjoyable and versatile drinking over the next 12-18 months. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists! Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802