The compelling 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Coliseum Block even eclipses the brilliant 2006. Opaque purple to the rim, with a gorgeous perfume of violets, licorice, blueberries, and blackberry liqueur, this backward, formidably endowed, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon possesses a multilayered texture, juicy, sweet fruit, loads of tannin, and well-integrated new oak. Cellar it for five years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years. Carter Cellars is a relatively new operation (it began in the late 1990s) run by Mark Carter and Nils Venge. The wines are made at Venge’s Saddleback Cellars in Oakville with some assistance from Fred Schrader. They have some interesting vineyard sources, including the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, the Truchard Vineyard in Carneros, the Revilo Vineyard in St. Helena, and the Coliseum Block in Soda Canyon.Tel. (707) 445-0311; Fax (707) 444-8067

Very deep garnet-black colored, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Coliseum Block is a little closed at this stage, revealing crème de cassis, baked plums and dried mulberries notions with wafts of potpourri, balsamic, fragrant soil and dried Provence herbs plus a hint of garrigue. The full-bodied palate is firm and chewy with some mature leathery notions coming through and a very long, savory finish.

As rich as Napa Cab gets. Made solidly in the modern style, it’s soft, elaborate and flamboyant, suggesting ultraripe blackberry pie, currant, mocha-choca and sweet oak flavors. The all-important tannins are smooth as velvet. Few Cabs are more delicious for drinking now, but longterm prospects are entirely unpredictable. ——S.H.(7/1/2010)—— 95