From its wax seal, its older vintage (this is the current release) and its name, expect interesting things. You won’t be disappointed. The wines come from a small parcel of land on the estate that was long considered too poor to plant. Native yeasts, whole berry fermentation and no filtering—that’s the methode ancienne part. There are just 20 barrels of poised, elegant wine with huge depth of flavor, black cherries and dense tannins blending well together. ——R.V.(11/1/2006)—— 92